Depending on which story you believe, the 'modern' suspended turntable, the ancestor of so many decks (Linn LP12, Ariston RDl 1, Manticore, Fons, etc) was either the Thorens TD150 or the
Acoustic Research XB. Both appeared at about the same time in the early 1960s, so it was a case of either parallel development or piracy. As no law suits went flying (although they surely would today) and I have no wish to upset the status quo, let's assume it was the former!

The AR deck is as rare as rocking-horse droppings in the UK and, frankly, the 1970s version we got over here is not as good as the Thorens nor anywhere near as tweakable. Its arm is very poor indeed, and the suspension is light and bouncy. Good in its day, it's now only a bargain at a car-boot sale if it's going for less than a tenner.

Much more common and better are the Thorens TD 150/160 range. They remained in production from the early 1960s through to the 1990s, and are very under-rated disc spinners. Common to all is an AC motor and metal sub-chassis and top-plate. The platter, sub-platter and main bearing were also reassuringly substantial.

Visually, the TD150 has it for me. The 'mini' LP12 look (just remember the LP12 was the copy, and not the '150) is just right. The later '160s may be heavier in plinth build, but they really don't look as handsome. Some TD160 variants are finished in typical Seventies plastic wrap, and the later Eighties versions come in real wood veneer, but this doesn't prevent them appearing a little clumsy by comparison.

(pictured right: The underside and sub chassis of this TD160 benefit from large amounts of bituminous damping.)

The TD150 Mk1 is just as good as the Mk2, except for the terrible arm which hamstrings the deck's performance. The Mk2's arm looks just as unappealing, but is actually better than a Rega RB300. When cash-strapped a few years ago, I popped an Ortofon MC 10 Super in a Mk2 and was staggered by what emerged from the groove. This partnership shouldn't have worked, but it did - with a vengeance. I had just parted with a monster high-end combo, costing many thousands of pounds, and here was this £50 turntable with a £60 cartridge that blew it away.

Sadly, the later TD160s suffered badly with useless arms too. There are some real horrors here, with strange plastic spacing devices instead of proper arm-height adjustment, and oh-so-flexible bearings. The last versions were available with a UK-fitted RB250, which was a fatal mistake - this arm does not work on these little decks. For similar reasons it failed to gel on the LP12.

Actually, one of the best options is to find an old Linn arm. The Basik LVVs and LVXs sound as if they were made to work hand-in-glove with the Thorens, and can be bought for as little as £50. One of the finest record players I heard was a Naim Aro/Koetsu cartridge on a tweaked TD150. Crazy combo, but it sang.

As far as tweaks go, they are many and varied. Simple stuff consists of throwing away the appalling platter mat and, on all TD150s and earlier TD160s, removing the crummy cardboard plinth base. This reaps massive rewards for very little outlay.

(pictured left: The bearing on the TD160 (right) is slightly larger than the TD150's.)

Another common modification is to fit Linn LPl 2 springs in the place of Thorens' own; the results can be mixed though, and you will have to know a friendly Linn dealer who will sell you the parts. Linn Valhalla power supply boards also boost the deck's sound massively, so while you are in the dealer's shop, see if they have any second-hand Valhallas lurking about. 

Chances are they will want lots of dosh for them, so you might find going through our Classifieds more cost-effective. Those seeking the highest order of upgrade should invest in something more specialised. One to try is Martin Bast'n's PSU. It costs £400 and will drive any turntable AC motors, including those found on Garrards 401s and 301s. He can be contacted at 225 Tettenhall Road, Wolverhampton WV6 ODE.

The TD150 is somewhat more flexible as regards fitting new arms. The arm board style was copied by Linn, and its large dimensions make it simple to put on any reasonable arm (beware anything too heavy - stick with arms known to work well on the LP12). Technical And General (tel: 01892 654534) will supply ready-cut boards for a modest amount. It's not hard to cut your own either, as long as you have enough knowledge about arm length and correct alignment.

The deck shown in our photos reveals an upgraded plinth system fitted around a TD150. This particular example started life as a chassis model and was fitted into the ubiquitous 'radiogram' cabinet. Its original arm was removed, and a pilot light placed in the arm-lift control hole. It's an easy formula to copy, and the little '150 does benefit from a heavier plinth.

In some ways, this plinth was the major advantage of the '160 over the '150, especially the later units where heavy, high-density particle board was the chosen material. The other step forward was the quality of the main bearing.

The TD150s are physically smaller than the TD160s. However, extended listening reveals very little difference between the two models, with, if anything, the slightly lighter sound of the '150 pipping the '160 at the post. The difference is marginal, and depends a great deal on how the decks are set up.

(pictured left: Speed change on the Thorens is achieved with a stepped pully and guide lever.)

Replacement belts are required about every three to five years depending on use. Again, it's down to your local Linn dealer for an LP12 belt! Make sure you fit the belt the right way round - get your dealer to point out the polished side.

These decks offer a great deal for very little. Some friends of mine, who owned a Gyrodec, recently set up a TDl 60 as an interim measure while a new arm was fitted to the Michell. Result? The Thorens stayed and the Gyrodec was passed on - they realIy are that good. Don't bother with the lesser TD166, or even the TD147; stick with the '150 and '160.

An early Mk1 or Mk2 TD150 will fetch anything between £50 and £75 in standard trim; a TD160 from £50 for an early Mk1, to £200 for a late 'S' deck. If you just want to 'plug and play', get either a Mk2 TD150 or a late spec. TD160. If you don't mind tinkering about and searching out a better arm, any variant will do. They offer sure-fire sound quality for pin money, and a lot of fun in the tweaking department.