Of all Thorens' turntables, the poor old TD125 has had just about the hardest time finding a new owner. The baby TD150 is small, neat and very simple, the legendary, TD124 is just that, a legend, but hardly anyone had time for the deck which replaced it. This is a shame, because the belt drive '125 is a very underrated disc spinner, and capable of quite a lot more than relegation to one of hi-fi's 'has beens'.

Following the '124 was always going to be a tough act. Love it or hate it, along with one or two other decks like Garrard's 301/401, the '124 was the top turntable of the 1960s. In the TD125 Thorens created a domestically acceptable deck, which had a die cast chassis floating on springs attached to a metal base, mounted in a wooden plinth. In addition, it could be purchased just as a chassis, for custom installation in something like SME's 2000 plinth system. 

An arm board is bolted on to the side of the cast chassis, and fitted to the deck's underside is an electronic power supply to feed the motor. As on the earlier TD150, the platter comes in two pieces, with a heavy outer platter sitting on top of the smaller sub-platter. The main bearing is made to a very high standard, much better than that of the little TD150. Under the sub-platter are stroboscopic markings, reflecting back to a little inspectlon window at the front of the deck to allow speed adjustment.

(pictured right: Visible beneath the metal plate that carries the electronics is the '125's substantial cast sub-chassis)

As far as controls go, the '125 has an electronic speed-change switch (with a rather irrelevant 16rpm setting), a pitch slider located below the window for the strobe light, a mains power switch and, on decks fitted with Thorens' own arm, a cueing control.

Sound-wise the TD125 has some very good qualities. It is a quiet deck and can reveal a lot of low-level record groove information. In stock form, with its own arm and base, the sound is neutral, although it errs on the side of 'polite'. The '125 is no fire starter - if you want ultra-dynamics, then look elsewhere. But for long-term listening it is very smooth and fatigue-free.

I find its main flaw is in the bass, which is a bit restrained. Someone who listens to a mainly Classical repertoire might not find this too much of a problem, although Techno-heads probably will. Where the '125 scores in a major way though is in the amount of detail it digs from the grooves. It can resolve the tiniest of subtleties and, for the money these decks command second-hand, must be taken seriously.

(pictured left: The TD125's platter is a two-part affair, the smaller sub-platter carrying markings for the stroboscope.)

In service the Thorens is extremely reliable. Only decks that have been fiddled with should be left alone. The biggest pain is the pitch control slider. It has a habit of getting bunged up with dirt and nine times out of ten will need a good clean with a proprietary switch-cleaning solvent (if you can get it, use the Philips cleaner in the silver/black can with the orange top). The other regular service item is the belt, and, as with every other belt drive turntable, these need cleaning/replacing pretty frequently.

I have seen TD125's 'mauled' quite badly, especially in the electronics where the presets on the printed circuit board have been maladjusted. Make sure, if buying one, to check that it is running at the right speed on both 33 and 45. Any faults are liable to be coonected with the pitch control slider.

This deck really does benefit from some minor tweaking. As with all good turntables, a proper stand such as those from Mana or Sound Organisation is de rigueur. While the '125 does have pretty good isolation, the relatively high-mass sub-chassis working well against the springs, it's even better if the boat is not rocked in the first place.

(pictured right: Thorens' TD125s rarely go wrong. The only area where faults tend to occur is in the pitch control slider.)

The ribbed rubber mat should be relegated to the dustbin immediately. There are three main replacement options: 

1) Glass mat. Not to everyone's taste, plus it will be necessary to re-adjust arm height and suspension springs, but it can sound very good. 

2) Felt mat. This is the easiest to fit, but the least satisfactory sounding.

3) Cork mat. Buy some thin cork and glue it to the platter with silicon sealant.

If you decide to stick with the original arm, you'll need to replace the lead-out cable and phono plugs. This isn't difficult - the terminal strip is located on the underside of the arm board and anyone with basic soldering skills can manage the swap.

The original arm is not quite as bad as you might think from its spindly looks. Sure, it isn't the last word in rigidity or low coloration, but it is quite usable. Something like a Pickering XV-15 or Roksan Corus Black will work pretty well in it. 

(pictured left: Thorens' own arm might not look too impressive but it can sound quite good if the lead-out cable and phono plugs are replaced.)

There is no doubt the original arm is the deck's weakest link though. But as for a good budget upgrade, it is difficult to recommend anything specific. The Rega RB250/300 doesn't really work in this deck. You could try hunting down a second-hand Alphason, Helius or Linn arm. Just avoid any overly heavy items.

For the money, I can't think of another second-hand player which offers so much for so very little. Even in untouched 'plug and play' form, the '125 will beat most new decks up to the £300 mark. And with mild tweaking, it can really compete with decks up in the high hundreds. A complete TD125 with arm and base will change hands for about £120, less armless or as an unmounted chassis. For that it just cannot be beaten.